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Every once in a while, the daily maintinance of a cocker
just doesn't cut it. You can put lube through the ASA, but it just doesn't
get a good, deep clean in. It's recommended that at least once a year,
if not more, you totally strip down your cocker and give it a good, thorough
cleaning. Sound intimidating? It's really not all that bad, you just need
a handful of tools, some cleaning solution, and about an hour of time.
So, to start out, there's a decently short
list of things you'll need to fully disassemble your cocker (Please note,
this doesn't include tearing down both regs or the ram completely). You'll
need a full set of allen keys (.050 all the way up to 3/16, though the
smallest most people will use is a 1/16), a cleaning solution (I recommend
50/50 water and rubbing alcohol), some lube (I use PMI synthetic paintball
gun oil), various wrenches used to remove the front pneumatics (7/16,
1/2, and 9/16 should cover any of the parts), a valve tool, an adjustable
wrench, some blue loctite, a squeege or long rod, and paper towels or
a cloth rag.
 Start
out by doing the obvious; degas your marker and remove any paintballs
and loaders from the gun. Next, remove the bolt and cocking rod, as well
as the back block. Remove the beavertail using a  1/8
allen wrench. With the contents of the back block removed, you can continue
on to removing the grip frame and regulator. Remove whatever line you
have going into the bottom of your reg (if you have macro/microline, simply
remove it from the fitting. If you have steel braided hose, remove the
bottomline attachment from the grip, and then  unscrew
the reg). Now, using a 1/8 allen wrench, remove the two screws holding
the grip frame to the body. When removing the grip, be careful to not
let the grip just fall off, as it's attached to the timing rod. Either
lay the body on it's side and remove the grip, or get a firm hold on the
grip and remove the screws. Once the grip screws are removed, pull slightly
on the trigger, and slide the timing rod out the side of the grip frame.
Set the grip and regulator aside.
 Now
that you have the basic exterior parts removed, we can move on to the
internals. Using a 1/8 allen wrench inserted into the top of the gun,
 rotate
the hammer lug counter-clockwise. You need to do this in order to remove
the hammer from the gun. With the grip removed, you can look at the bottom
of the body at where the hammer lug is, so continue to turn counter-clockwise
until the lug will clear the body. With the lug recessed, take a 3/16
allen wrench and unscrew the velocity adjuster from the back of the gun.
Once the velocity adjuster (IVG) is removed, the mainspring should come
right out with it. You may have to tap or shake the gun a bit, but the
hammer should fall right out as well. Set these parts off to the side
along with the other parts you've already removed. We'll get to the cleaning
part later, and continue on with the teardown. With the hammer, mainspring,
and IVG removed, it's time to focus our attention on the valve. If you
don't have a valve tool, doing this next step is pretty pointless, as
there's pretty much no way to remove the valve without a tool (yes, it
can be done, but not with tools the average person has laying around their
house).
 To
remove the valve is a two step process. First ,
on the underside of the body, is a valve guide set screw. Using the proper
allen wrench (5/32), remove this screw. Next, insert the valve removal
tool in the back of the marker, as shown. Once you engage the valve jam
nut, unscrew it (counter-clockwise). Now, holding the gun vertical, with
the barrel end up, slowly bring out the valve removal tool. Though you
may have to shake it a bit, the jam nut, valve, cup seal/valve pin, and
valve spring should all come out, hopefully in one convenient set. With
the valve, valve spring, and all that removed, you're now done with the
internals of the marker. You can see all of the internals and basic parts
layed out here:
 With
all of the internals of the marker removed, lets turn our  attention
to the pneumatics. First, we start off by preparing the front block and
components to be removed. This involves two basic things, removing the
low pressure hoses, and removing the timing rod from the timing collar.
To remove the low pressure hoses, the first thing you need to do is remove
the top hats if you have them. Using a thin screwdriver, or other thin
flat object, pry lightly upwards underneath the tophats until they slide
off. Do not crimp them and try to pull, as you may crimp the nipples  they
slip over. With the top hats peeled back, take a pair of needle nose pliers,
or small pliers, and pull up on the  pneumatic
hose. Again, don't pull or crimp on the nipples, but pull from above the
nipples. Once all the hoses are removed, we can turn attention to the
timing rod. Unless you want to spend a lot of time retiming your 3-way,
I'd suggest leaving the timing rod on your marker, and simply removing
the 3-way shaft. To remove the shaft, use a 1/16 allen wrench and remove
the FRONT set screw. With this screw removed, when we remove the 3-way,
the 3-way shaft will simply come out with it. Now that he two  prep
steps are done, we can start removing parts. The first part that will
need to be removed is the low pressure reg. Using the appropriate size
wrench (either  7/16
or 1/2 are usually a good guess), unscrew the reg. Be warned that if it's
the first time you have removed the reg, it will be very, very tough,
as WGP uses red loctite from the factory. You'll have to use a lot of
elbow grease, just make sure you don't try and use any of the pneumatics
as a grip point. Put the body on a flat surface, and turn. Once the lp
reg is removed, the 3 way is pretty damn easy to get off. It shouldn't
be loctited or anything, so just turn it counter clockwise. If it is loctited,
use a piece of leather or other thick material (say, a strap wrench) to
turn the 3-way. Now, let's focus on the ram. Again, using the proper wrench,
remove the ram by  rotating
counterclockwise. Please use the wrench on the part closest to the back
block, because if you have a STO ram, you may end up removing the front
port of the ram, not the ram from the front block. Now, the only thing
left is to remove the banjo bolt that holds the front block to the body.
Using a 3/16 allen wrench, insert the wrench into the banjo bolt, and
rotate counter-clockwise. The bolt should slip right out of the front
block, but may take a while to unscrew from the body. When it's removed,
there should be two o-rings, one on each side of the front block where
the bolt goes through them. Here's a picture of all the pneumatic components:
Unless you want to tear any other of the parts down further,
you're done! To reassemble, just repeat this process in reverse order.
Start by screwing the banjo bolt through the front block and into the
body. Once on snugly, reattach the ram, then the 3-way, then the low pressure
reg. Re-attach the 3-way shaft to the timing rod, and reattach the low
pressure hoses.  Insert
the valve spring, valve pin, valve, and jam nut into the body. Thread
the jam nut in until the valve about lines up with the valve plug hole.
Making sure that the hole in the valve is pointing straight up, insert
the valve guide plug and tighten down a bit, and then fully tighten the
valve jam nut. Once the jam nut is tightened, unscrew the valve guide
plug and make sure the valve is aligned properly. When it is, tighten
down the valve guide plug. Now, add the hammer. Position it so that the
bottom of the lug is facing down, and use a 1/8 allen wrench to drop the
lug so that the hammer won't fall out of the body. Insert your mainspring
and re-thread the IVG/velocity adjuster. Re-attach the grip frame, attaching
the timing rod to the trigger, and use the two screws to attach it to
the body. Attach the back block to the pump arm, screw in the cocking
rod, reattach the bolt, and attach the beavertail, and that's it! You've
just disassembled and reassembled your cocker.
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